Byline: Ruth Fantasia
Jul. 8--True seafood restaurants are as rare as sturgeon in this area. Good ones, even rarer. And while the New Salty's Pub & Bistro in Halfmoon -- recently purchased by John D. Marzelli -- isn't as good as a crab shack on the coast, it smells like one, and it's one of the best family restaurants in Saratoga County.
Differences are more matters of style than quality or quantity. Maryland crab cakes, as served in Maryland, for instance, are generally made of jumbo lump crabmeat bound together with only enough filler to keep them from falling apart and only enough seasonings to subtly enhance the crabmeat. At Salty's they're patties at least 4 inches in diameter, made mostly of claw meat and accented with pimentos, like clams casino. They're tasty and filling; they're just not Maryland crab cakes.
Two of the huge cakes come with a pair of …

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